Once again there was more wind than expected almost right out of the gate, and I had no reef points in the sail. The good news is the ballast proved itself. Bad news is we were so overpowered that we essentially lost directional control. Reefing moved to the top of the priority list.
This is my typical "corner patch" at the luff and leach for each reefing point. Reinforcing ribbon and then the radiuses vinyl tape strips. Finished off with the sewing machine.
The cringes in between are simply a layer of vinyl tape on each side and the grommet.
This is at the luff up by the yard. Third reef to head is almost continually reinforced for the last reef. I call this the "Texas 200" reef.
The original full sail
First reef point. This will be tied in at anything over @ 8 knots of wind I believe.
And the second reef point. Testing will show where this is needed.
Last and most certainly least sail. Be interesting to find out if i can get to windward with this at all, not to mention just how much wind i can stand up to with it.
The other thing I'm going to get done is a Paradox style steering rope around the inside of the cabin. Last 2 times i've had help in the boat working the till while I was hoisting sail. I won't have that most of the time, so the ability to helm the boat while standing at the mast will be necessary. The other thing I've found is that even with the bulk of the ballast forward, my 200lbs and the outboard make her trim a bit bow up If I'm back in easy reach of the tiller. Fine for downwind work, but I'll want to scoot forward when heading upwind to avoid lee helm and help get the full chine in the water. A tiller extension could work, but wouldn't help in the hoisting process.
You're going to find that, reefed, you won't be able to go to weather on starboard tack, since the yard will part ways with the mast. You need either a parrel where the halyard attaches to the yard, or a ring around mast and halyard. I use a ring that is a couple of inches cut from a piece of 4" pvc pipe. I put it over the mast head right after I put the halyard through the dumb sheave, and it drops into place when I step the mast. Besides making it possible to go to weather, it will keep your boom from sagging when reefed.
ReplyDeleteI think you're giving me some good advice here. I spent a bit of time playing with the downhaul location and boom parrel to get it to set even this good. Lots of slop up top for sure. Does that PVC ring add any friction/difficulty when hoisting?
DeleteNot much. Going up is pretty easy, but often it hangs a bit on the way down; when I get hold of the yard I just wiggle it a bit (getting the halyard more against the mast) and it drops right down. Simple, no fuss, and it works ok. A parrel with beads and all is prettier, but it needs to be done right (begin slack and then self-tension) since the halyard attachment at the yard can't set directly at the mast until it's partly raised.
ReplyDeleteI ended up rigging a yard hauling parrel like for a chinese junk. It took so much friction off the halyard, I got rid of the block on the yard lashing. I just put a metal ring that I tie off the halyard too. I take the hauling parrel through the ring, forward around the mast and the tie it back off to the ring. I can suck the yard up tight at any level, and absolutely no problems going up or down.
ReplyDelete